DIYnot Forums. Hi there, I'm hoping I can get some advise on the best way to install the aquapanels. I've searched the forums and came across a couple of different things and have read wickes aquapanel instructions, and most mention stud partitions and batons, however my walls are brick. I came across another thread that said the panels could be attached to the brick wall via wall plugs and aquapanel screws.
Would this be ok to install the panels right onto the brick wall via wall plugs? I assume I would space each plug etc as the instructions say for screwing into the wood batons? That thread also mentioned adhesive bonding of some kind. Would I need this? What type of adhesive and how is it applied If it's not recommend to attach straight to the brick and to use wood batons, then what's the recommended thickness of the batons to use?
My only concern I would have with using batons, is that this would bring my shower wall out about 40mm if using 30mm batons. I know probably pretty silly and may not make much of a difference in the end. I've also read something about using dry wall adhesive.
Do you use this along with attaching the panel via either plugs or batons? I'm not sure how this fits in? I don't recall reading it in the wickes instructions, but I do recall reading it in a thread. Any advise is much appreciated. Jasonb , 30 Mar Currently my shower pipes are ontop of the tiles and I would rather these behind the wall.
I was going to chisel out the old plaster and into the brick to place the shower pipes then aquapanel over. I really don't fancy chiseling through brick for the pipes. So I've decided to remove the plaster back to the brick where the pipes and batons will be placed. Originally, I did state that I didn't really want to install the batons in fear of the shower cubical being pushed out too far by approx 40mm. However, I've decided on a compromise by removing the plaster to the brick.
I've noticed that the plaster is about 25mm thick on the brick, so by doing this I'd only be adding another mm approx to the depth over all. So now my question is What size baton would you recommend using?
I'm thinking a 1. Sorry for the change, but really appreciate all the advise. I just want to make sure I do things the correct way rather then finding out in 3 months time my whole shower is falling apart due to me being a noob. Moz , 31 Mar Use 25x50 battens vertically spaced at centers if you are fixing the AP horizontally - usual way in older housed with 9ft ceilings. If its a newer house and two boards will reach the ceiling then set the battens at cts to pick up the board edges and one in the center.
Plug and screw these to the wall every mm or so. If its an outside wall and you have heating problems now is an ideal time to add some insulation between the battens either polystyrene or if you can afford the extra then kingspan or celotex. Choosing Shower Panels instead of tiles makes installing a waterproof surface easier and faster. A shower panel can cover 2. We explain how to choose your shower panels, how to choose the flooring and trims and then fix panel board to your bathroom walls, to provide additional waterproofing around sensitive areas such as the bath and shower.
Find out more about them below. Don't want to do this job yourself? Let us help you find a tradesman local to you. Of course this is a personal choice and there is no doubt that tiles have had, and always will have the larger part of the DIY market when it comes to waterproofing shower rooms and bathrooms.
This is because the perception is that tiling a bathroom is a lot cheaper than fitting shower panels, which, considering DIY Labour is completely free, they may well be. There are many types of shower panel on the market. These are all Trade names for waterproof panels made specifically for use in the bathroom.
For the purposes of this project we have chosen to work with Aquabord. Aquabord is a PVC panel system with tongue and groove joints which need no trim in between boards and, when fitted correctly, give virtually invisible joints. One downside to these boards, as with every shower panel, is that they scratch quite easily so please do handle them with care.
There are many shower panel suppliers in the market place but our preferred supplier for shower panels and associated fittings, is a company called Interior Panel Systems Ltd or IPSL.
There are two types of Aquabord panel — the hollow core range at 1m wide and the Styrofoam filled laminate range at 1. Both types of board are 2. The Styrofoam offers greater insulation warmth and sound and greater strength within each board but is obviously heavier than the hollow core. Lets look at other areas of cost. Most people tile or clad their bathroom on two or three walls. The long side of the bath and the tap-end, where the shower usually fits, so lets work with three walls to clad the bath, shower and toilet plus hand basin.
An Aquabord PVC tongue and grooved shower panel , measuring 2. There is also the option of using a specially designed trim for the edge of your bath or shower where it meets the bottom of the boards. This is a very sensible and totally waterproof option for DIYers and we suggest it is used. The prices used here are for the most expensive chrome trims and absolutely top quality adhesive and sealant. We would not recommend cutting any corners when it comes to buying materials to keep a bathroom waterproof!
You will need a fine toothed saw, a hack saw for the trims and a sealant gun. During this time they will also be able to de-grease the walls with a rag dipped in white spirit and be fully ready for fitting shower panels the next day. The shower panels can be cut and fitted easily in a day but to be realistic we have also added another half a day for clearing up and sealing everything with silicone.
You can get all the help you need on the installation of the shower panels by watching and reading the additional installation guide and video found on the IPSL website. For the same sized bathroom Using the size of your own bathroom as a guide and also teh information above, work out the cost for both ceramic tiles and shower panels. You may be surprised at how close in total cost they are! Very few DIYers carry the range of tools required to fit a bathroom properly. There are cutters, tile nips, tile saws, floats, grout floats, levels etc and it is a pretty fair bet to say you will need to go out and buy at least some of these.
Whereas cutting a hole in a shower panel for pipes is easy, especially through hollow core where you can even use a hobby knife; cutting or drilling a hole for pipes in a ceramic or porcelain tile is not so easy. To do any job properly, you need the right tools and tiling is no exception.
They would reckon on maybe 2 — 2. You however, are going to take 5 days. There is no doubt about it. You can visit our page on how to lay ceramic tiles in bathrooms and kitchens for some help, but it will still be hard work. Believe us, when you have disrupted the bathroom, you have disrupted the entire house and everyone in it! We made a point of calling the previous paragraph, the financial costs, because some of the other costs are not so obvious.
Just take a look on Google if you do not believe us. Most DIYers are in such a hurry to finish the job they slap the grout into the joints which they have rarely left wide enough without checking that every singe joint is absolutely packed with grout.
If the joint is not full it will leak and leaking joints cost an arm and leg in terms of the potential affects of the leak. The image below says everything and this was the result of some hurried tiling. We think the image below says everything! There has never been a tiled bathroom where the grouted joints stay clean for very long. Maintenance of these joints is a pain and sales of grout rakes from our shop shows just how many people have to rake out the old grout in their tiles to put in new grout.
Of all the jobs in the world, raking out tile grout has to be the worst! The range of shower panels is huge. You can request a brochure from IPSL by clicking on the banner below and you will see that you can have everything from sparkly night-club walls to a lovely plain gloss white.
For just fitting a shower tray, the Aquabord sizes usually enable the shower area to be clad in just two panels, at right angles to each other and joined by one jointing bead. The edges of each board are covered with an edge trim or external corner and matching skirting boards are available for decoration on otherwise plain walls.
Bathroom and shower panels can be installed over existing tiles in bathrooms and come in either plain, or in a huge variety of patterns. They are warm to the touch and can be wiped clean and because of their inherent warmth will reduce condensation problems in the bathroom.
The panels can be simply stuck to existing walls and most manufacturers will actually sell shower kits. These kits, based on the experience of thousands of showers, are for two or three wall showers and include everything required to finish the job.
Good suppliers will offer full installation instructions and most have these in downloadable format from their websites. When fitting out an existing bathroom with shower panels we suggest removing the WC and the hand basin. The shower panels can go right down to the floor behind both of these items of bathroom furniture and they can be re-fitted onto the panels. This gives one, uninterrupted surface which can be kept clean really easily and removing a basin and toilet is not a problem.
For help with this please visit our many pages on fitting bathrooms and other bathroom related projects. The bath should remain in position, or, if you are replacing the bath, then it should be fitted before the panels are put on the walls. This ensures that the panels are fitted over the lip of the bath which, in turn, makes absolutely sure that the water can run down the shower panels and into the bath rather than onto the floor.
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